Many years ago, when I was surveying the Camel Trail for the Council, I came across a spring in a rocky outcrop near Bodmin. A plaque named it Scarlett's Well and its magical waters were claimed to cure stomach and other ailments.
One of four sacred wells in Bodmin, this rather unlovely well looks as if it's surrounded by breeze blocks but they are in fact granite. |
It struck me that this water issuing from the rock would be pure and uncontaminated and so the local people who could have been drinking polluted water with a resulting history of stomach complaints could have their symptoms alleviated if they drank the pure spring water. In time this little understood effect would be attributed to mystical properties and accordingly venerated.
When the country was converted to Christianity, these springs would be claimed to be Holy rather than attempts to ban the earlier beliefs. Holy Wells occur all over Cornwall and elsewhere, and are frequently dedicated to saints.
Some are still marked by their later Medieval protective stonework, others have reverted to almost invisible trickles, their past significance lost apart from their enduring name.
The water supply for the Saxon town of Kelliwig, now our nearest town, Callington, was from Our Lady's Well (now known as the Pipewell) The water is reached by a few stone steps down to a stone-lined tank fed from a pipe, and protected by a small stone well-head (built in 1816) and a railing.
The Pipewell in Well Street, Callington |
The explanatory plaque.
A nearby hamlet, called Frogwell, getting its water and name from the sacred well, has no such structure. It is these days just a weed-hidden spring by the road.
Dupath Well a little to the South of Callington is a handsome medieval well-house or chapel, erected in the early fifteen hundreds by the Canons of St German's and dedicated to St Ethelred the King of Mercia who died in 709. After the reformation when the cult of worshipping at these wells was abandoned, the structures marking the wells were usually allowed to decay until their significance was again recognised and many were restored in a gothic style in Victorian times. The original stones were used when possible but we can only guess how accurate these restorations are.
The handsome well-house or chapel at Dupath. Inside, it has a corbelled roof of big granite slabs. |
Dupath Well.
The sacred water, claimed to cure whooping cough, runs from a spring, into the cistern within the well-house and the overflow runs into the little trough outside.
St Mallett's Well
The most enduring of the Holy Wells had post-pagan stone constructions to mark the springs of sacred water, otherwise they tend to disappear in overgrown weeds and bushes.
The remains of this well outside Stoke Climsland, has been smothered by a conifer plantation. We thrashed our way though overgrown vegetation and the branches of a fallen tree a few days ago but failed to find any signs.Yet a lady who has lived in the parish for ninety years remembers when she was a girl, the annual ceremony of 'Well Dressing' when the young girls of the parish processed to the well and laid posies of flowers around it. The then Canon of the parish church banned the ceremony as 'pagan'.Nearby Rezare Holy Well shows signs of sporadic care although at present the fence is broken and there are some fine dandelions growing among the ornamental plant pots. |
This well-house also has a granite corbelled roof.
The interior. The 18 -inches deep clear water was used in baptisms but traditionally it was claimed to cure sprains in horses' legs. The cold water I suppose was the ancient equivalent of our ice packs.
There are niches in the walls perhaps for candles and effigies.
St Cleer Holy Well
I understand that local children still take part in the annual well-dressing here on May 25th. |
St Keyne Holy Well
Constructed in the side of a slope from which several springs erupt, this well is a mile or two south of St Keyne village.
It was claimed that the first member of a newly-wed couple to reach the well and drink the water, would be the dominant partner in the marriage!
St Cleder's Well.
A couple of days ago we walked up the Inny valley from St Clether's Church for about half a mile. The hillsides were russet-coloured as the bracken died back and robins' sweet winter songs were trilled all the way.
As the mist dissipated, the spiders' webs shone with the remaining water vapour and the pungent smell of a fox lingered in the chiily air.
Someone had obligingly mown the grass surrounding the chapel no more than a day ago
St Cleder, one of the sons of King Brychan who ruled in part of South Wales, came to this spring as an old man and made his hermitage here . He set up the massive granite altar, which now stands in the adjacent chapel.He died in about 550.
The Holy Well of St Cleder. Just to the north of the chapel, a clear spring of water issues from the hole in the bottom back corner of the trough, and the overflow runs through a pipe into another trough inside the chapel next to the altar, and then out again through the south wall to another healing well before running away down the valleyside to join the River Inny below.
The massive granite altar below which are buried the bones of the saint. The water from the well flows over these bones and into the troughs before it runs away outside. It is said to have powers of healing.
The dipping well built into the south wall of the chapel takes the water from the trough inside.
The well and chapel are on private land but open to the public and are lovingly maintained by the owner and a supporting group.
As we walked back to the car we were watched by a young female Kestrel who flew down from their regular nest site among the rocky outcrops of rock above the chapel and perched on the electricity line which runs through the valley.
When walking in a fairly remote area of Bodmin Moor with the children some forty or more years ago, we came upon the dramatic spring near Rusheyford. It lies between the abandoned little farmstead of Rusheyford Gate, and the complicated remains of the medieval village of Trewartha with traces of tracks leading among little houses and enclosures.
Was this generous spring the water supply for these settlements?
There is no sign of any stone surrounds, just a deep pool of crystal-clear water bubbling and erupting up from the bed of granite gravel some two feet down. We stood at the rushy margin, looking in when Tony dropped his camera into the water! So we have no pictures. If I was fanciful I'd say the spirits of the spring didn't want it to be seen. But I will spoil the end of the story because, if the spirits were malign, the camera was ruined, but if they were healing, the camera would have dried out safely. And I can't remember!!
Surprisingly, despite the size of the spring and its site, I can find no reference to it either as a water source or any sacred properties.
There are many more Sacred Springs in Cornwall, many now overgrown or obliterated, inaccessible and forgotten. In any case, too many for a short piece such as this.
Very nice, mary. Did you know that there's a Facebook group called 'Holy Wells of Cornwall' that tour the county and report on holy wells. Fascinating subject and an interesting mix of faith, myth and social history.
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