Monday, November 30, 2020

A MURMURATION OF STARLINGS

 

A MURMURATION OF STARLINGS

Coming home after a winter’s day on the North Cornwall coast some years ago, we noticed as we passed Davidstow, the disused wartime aerodrome of the Coastal Command, small groups of starlings were flying up from the south and perching in the tops of the trees that studded the banks at intervals. They flew up and went towards the aerodrome as we disturbed them. Curious, we turned and followed them back to the wide area of short grazed turf between the runways. The small groups merged with a flock already forming. It grew and grew, with flocks coming in from all directions. They swirled high up into the clear sky, wheeling and turning, sometimes closing up into a tight black cloud, and then as if they were a fluid, poured into looser silvery shapes, bulging and flowing. We were transfixed by the constantly changing shape, black and tight then billowing out in a loose formation as if smoke was being wafted by an invisible hand.

As the light faded, groups broke away and gradually flew lower down over the big conifer plantation alongside the runways, then suddenly plunged into the tree tops. Bunch after bunch detached from the main flock and came down into the trees until at last they were all in and the spectacle was over.

We went home exhilarated by the sight. We soon heard from our birding friends that this roost had been known for several years. It wasn’t ‘our discovery’ at all! It turns out they have been known there for at least forty years.

 

Flying in to roost after aerial evolutions.

Every year since, we have made many winter visits. The spectacle never fails,nor is it  ever the same. We have never seen a repeat of that first event, so prolonged, so high up in the clear sky above us. If the weather is bad, the birds tend to fly in low and fast and with a minimum of evolutions fly into the roost more abruptly.

On one occasion, looking for them up in the sky, we missed them at first. They were coming in low, barely skimming the banks and pitched down onto the short turf between the old pitted runways. They settled thick and close, like a black carpet, probing frantically. The birds at the back were constantly rising and flying over the flock and settled at the front of the mass, and thus they gradually rolled across the airfield till they reached the plantation where they rose up and poured into the trees. They had seemed oblivious of us parked in their path, and at the last minute flew up and over the car, still very low, and settled just in front of us and continued their onward flow, apparently feeding voraciously as they move

Black cloud of starlings as they came in to land on grass beside us.

Dense carpet of starlings settling on the grass for a last feed before roosting.
 

 On yet another occasion we decided to park along a road which passes through the plantation. We had a more limited view of the evolutions, but on cue at twilight they flew in and settled in the trees to our right, their calls and restlessness rising to a crescendo like rushing water until suddenly all went quiet and they rose again in a steady sequence and flew over, behind and ahead of us in an endless stream, to settle again in the trees to our left. This was the bigger section of the plantation and perhaps they had decided there was more space that side. Even so, as they settled in the near dark we could see them clustered thickly among the higher branches, silhouetted against the sky like a black hoar frost.

Once settled, their loud chatter subsided, the patrolling buzzards disappeared and darkness closed over.

Remembering Robert Browning’s narrative poem about the Pied Piper of Hamelin, that mediaeval folk tale about how the piper lured away a plague of rats, I wondered if Browning had witnessed a starling murmuration and that influenced his description in his poem.

I quote: “....and ere three shrill notes the pipe uttered,

You heard as if an army muttered,

And the murmuring grew to a grumbling,

And the grumbling grew to a mighty rumbling,

And out of the houses the rats came tumbling....”

A few years ago, apparently inexplicably, they decamped and now fly in to roost in another plantation a mile or so further onto the moor, but the aerobatic display is every bit as spectacular.

Nearly 50 years ago we found a much smaller flock which roosted in a small plantation in the Tamar Valley. Their droppings killed the trees over a number of years, and they too decamped,. They were either moved on or they didn’t have the safety and cover given by the pine needles and moved of their own free will.

 

 


Friday, November 20, 2020

FORESTRY OPERATIONS

FORESTRY OPERATIONS

Then and now....

Over two hundred years ago, Australia was opened up for settlement by the convict and pioneer timber getters. By burning and ring-barking they cleared the land and penetrating the dense forests they felled huge trees for timber. 

 

 


 

 An enormous Mountain Ash(Eucalyptus regnans,) the tallest flowering tree on Earth, growing to 90m. Note the slots in the stump where  the timber getters wedged planks  to stand on while sawing through the trunk. The trunks were cut to length and taken to the sawpits

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Log in place over sawpit (note saw in place.)
 

From my notes: “now hidden in the undergrowth, these sawpits always evoke visions of fearful toil; think of the heat, the flies, the sawdust raining down on the lower sawyer. The thirst, the pressure of getting the day’s quota done.... the Heartbreak Track ran down into deep gullies and up the other side. Heartbreak indeed for the bullock teams used to drag the timbers to the timber mill in the valley below.”

Now.... commercial forestry in Britain and Europe is a fully mechanized industry. Mainly coniferous plantations are grown and harvested in blocks. 

Timber from clear-fell sorted and stacked to be taken to sawmill.
 

Mechanized timber-handling. Note some in background has already been planked on site.
 

Cornwall is among the least wooded areas of Britain with only 11% tree cover compared with an average of 13% over the whole of Britain and  37% on the Continent.  In East Cornwall the numerous deep valleys have long been wooded, traditionally Oak,  but the policy of the Forestry Commission some 60 and more years ago was to fell these woods  apart from a strip alongside their valley -bottom rivers and streams, and to plant them with various species of conifers. This followed a lot of planting of conifers in big blocks on the moors and the heathy, uncultivated ridges between the river systems. The plants such as heather, gorse and whortleberry growing in the better light in tracksides and cleared areas in these places, are long-enduring evidence of the previous heathland habitat.

Economics and a more enlightened philosophy are leading in some places to the felling of marketable conifers and then replanting on occasion with broad-leaved species, or at least a bordering fringe surrounding further coniferous re-planting.

A walk in the forestry. From note  a few years ago: we were driven by curiosity about the recent planting in cleared woodland near home. We walked down the valley which is drained by a stream fed by numerous springs and freshets along its length.

There are several named woods in this valley and they comprise blocks of different ages and different species of conifer.

The valley bottom  hasn’t been planted up and is a chaos of fallen and bent moss-covered trunks and branches of oak, ash, willow and hazel. In the thick soggy leaf mould we saw bright orange cups of the Orange Peel Fungus 

Orange Peel Or Coral-Cup Fungus
 

 Going down the right-hand side of the valley in Watergate Wood we soon came to a steep area recently clear-felled, with the brushwood rolled up into windrows, ready for re-planting.

Herb-rich grassland,planted, clear-felled & ready for re-planting all within 40 years.

We knew this slope back in the ‘90s when it was lovely flower-rich unimproved grassland. We were disappointed to see a few years later it had been planted with conifers. Now we have come full circle and they have been cut down. Their tree rings confirmed they were about thirty years old.

On then through Sturts Wood, a mature stand of Western Red Cedar, with bare ground beneath their fluted trunks. The hushed silence there only broken by the mewing calls of a pair of Buzzards circling in the blue sky above

Where the valley joined the Launceston road we came to a re-planted area. Young Oaks and Sweet Chestnut are protected by tall tree-guards; they have replaced a thirty-year old stand of Larches.

We followed back up the stream on the other side of the valley, passing stands of Douglas Fir, and Sitka and Norway Spruces, the ground below strewn with fallen cones. We’ll have to wait until it’s their turn for felling before we can count their age. Returning to the car through what the map calls Holwood Coppice, we had stopped to admire an overwintered Red Admiral, basking in a patch of warm sunlight, when a Woodcock got up from the wet track ahead and flew off among the trees.

Clear-felling by chain saw and machinery for handling the felled trees is now normal practice but now and then the old less invasive practice of felling of selected trees is used. In the late ‘80s we saw horses being used in the timber camps in beech forests in Jugoslavia (this was soon after Tito died and before Jugoslavia bloodily disintegrated into its member states) we  noted “ Ate lunch resting under a tree; a string of mules  stopped to drink at a long trough carved out of a tree trunk. Clear water was running into it from a pipe sticking out of the hillside. When we filled our water bottles we saw several dark little toads with bright orange bellies in the trough. The mules were loaded with side panniers full of 2 to 3-foot long logs of firewood. A couple of men sat on their ponies nearby. They looked like bandits. We have seen in the middle of the towns round here that people have loads of these lengths of firewood delivered outside the house, then men with mobile saw-benches come and cut it into shorter lengths.

Higher up, beyond the foresters’ camp in the beech forest we turned up the left fork of the track and passed the woodmen eating their lunch. Their horses were tucking into their nosebags. They are big heavy horses with long swishing tails. They’d been pulling great logs down onto the track for the lorries to take them to the sawmill at Krasno in the valley below.”

A few years later, Prince Charles, Duke of Cornwall, who takes a special interest in the woodland valley around Luckett here in East Cornwall arranged for a horse team to clear the Douglas Firs from a very steep little side valley. This team was an Irish father and sons from Cumbria with their pair of Ardennes horses. They extracted the felled trunks with clinical precision on a steep valley side on ground which was very difficult of access to modern machinery. The horse towing the long log delicately negotiated stumps, easing back and adjusting his pulling angle when impeded, with a minimum of instruction and fuss. It was fascinating to watch. The logs were pulled out to a track where they could then be loaded onto a trailer to take them to the main lorry pick-up point. 

 

 

 

Unhitching log just pulled down-slope.
 

 

The horse-drawn forewarder which will take logs down to the lorry pick-up point.

 

Waiting for the next job.
 

 From my notes Jan.’13

“We were told they are using horses in the timber work in the woods in the valley so we went to see.

            An Irishman and his two sons were clear-felling a patch of fir trees beyond the stream gully to the east of the Ridge meadows. It is a steepish slope and we looked across from the track curving away round the end of the next ridge, above the stream. Two men were standing talking, another was chain-sawing trunks into lengths of about eight foot, and two horses were standing patiently under the trees at the edge of the cleared ground.

            A trailer with a grab on it was being driven down the track by a tractor. The trailer was loaded with the eight foot lengths, and being taken to the stack further down where a lorry will take them away some time.

            Then one of the sons went over and taking one of the horses, attached a rope to the end of a trunk, and the horse pulled it down the slope to the middle of the clearing among the sawn lengths. He pulled two or three down like this, picking his way nimbly through and over the tangle of brash and stumps, on his own, controlled by shouts of ‘Whoa!’ and encouragement as the trunk slid down the slope or hitched up on snags.

            A bit later, he took both horses down to a four-wheeled trailer (a forewarder), again with a hydraulic grab on it and a light engine behind a sort of chariot platform at the front, with control levers. The horses stood quietly to one side, waiting to be backed between the shafts of the trailer.

            Almost the same size, they were impressively sturdy, with massive bone and muscle about the legs and chest, thick forelocks of long hair and long tails, one prettily plaited in the top half. Their backs and rumps were well covered with thick grey-roan coats; at first glance it was as if they had woollen blankets. The one nearer us we were told at some stage was 13, belonging to the father and the other, a 4 year-old, was owned by the son who was hitching them up. They are 15.1 and 15 hands respectively and are from the Ardennes. Working the woods was “In their blood” the father told me. “Generation after generation of them.” These were both stallions and they have two mares as well.

             All hitched and the engine on the forewarder running, for brakes rather than driving power, they were off with a twitch of the reins and a shout, turning and then hauling up the slope in a mess of stone and mud, down to the stream, across it and up the slope beyond, into the clearing. The hollow places in the track were filled with fir branches to make the going easier. We walked on behind and watched as the horses, pulling hard, made their way up across the slope of the clearing and stopped for the first logs to be loaded. Then on up a bit further, picking their way over the rough ground, occasionally slipping. One stumbled to his knees over a log but at once righted himself and pulled on. There was little fuss from the young man driving them. When loaded, they pulled the trailer down to the track and unloaded, for the tractor and loader to take them on down for the lorry.

            “Grand Fir” the Irishman called it  --  Abies nobilis. “ Rubbish for timber” he said, “Too soft and it splits everywhere.”

We counted the rings. 31 or so. We remember these woods being planted.

 

You may be interested in these links:

@kim.atkinson257 (her Instagram)

htpps://northcornwallnaturalist.blogspot.com

Tuesday, November 10, 2020

WALMSLEY SANCTUARY

 

 Walmsley Reserve

One of our favourite bird-watching sites in Cornwall is the Walmsley Sanctuary near Wadebridge. It is 20 hectares of wetland and an important overwintering site for waders and all kinds of wildfowl.

It was bought with a legacy from Dr Walmsley by the Cornwall Birdwatching & Preservation Society back in 1939.

It is situated where the River Amble runs into the Camel Estuary. In 1971 in order to prevent flooding of the pretty village of Chapel Amble a little way up the Amble, a dam was built where the river joins the Camel and the Amble was canalized. This turned the Amble salt marshes into seasonally wet grazing meadows and efforts by the BWPS (Birdwatching & Preservation Society)to maintain the water levels in the reserve were only partially successful.

However, in 1991 the Rivers Authority  re-instated the original route of the Amble and by building bunds and digging scrapes, made the reserve what it is today: a series of permanent pools and islands of rushy emergent vegetation, attractive not only to the overwintering and passage birds but also to residents like Reed Bunting and dragonflies in the summer. By careful management of the water levels the reserve has developed into the valuable site we know today.

 

The Sanctuary as it is today, looking from the Tower hide.
 

There are three hides, the original one overlooking the western end of the reserve, a fine 4metre-high tower hide opened in 1999 which is only open to key-holders and a third hide ( the Burnière Hide) which  is reached across two fields  over the road. This hide overlooks the extensive flats of the Camel Estuary.

 

Looking from old (public) hide at western end of the reserve. (see the heron?)

 

Looking across the mudflats of the Camel Estuary from the Burniere hide (public)

 

 

Huge flocks of Golden Plover can be seen.


Looking along hedge from tower hide.


The feeders beside the tower hide attract tits, finches and this Greater Spotted Woodpecker.

 An interesting mix of ducks and waders is to be seen from the hides in winter, especially at high water when more flocks of Lapwings, Golden Plover, Curlew and Black-tailed Godwits fly in to roost away from the rising tide in the estuary. It is always worth looking through the flock of Canada Geese feeding in the meadows alongside the wetland for the occasional White-fronted Goose, and when walking across to the Burnière Hide, the overwintering Mute Swans in the meadows alongside the estuary are often joined by one or two Whooper Swans. 

 

When you get your eye in,  there are numerous Snipe, almost invisible in the vegetation.
 

 

Spoonbills may be seen in the winter.


 

 

Little Egret, becoming quite common in the last 40 years.

 From my field notes:

A perfect autumn morning. Deep silence, no wind, cumulus beginning to build up in the clear blue sky above the marshes. Canada Geese floating peacefully; Mallard and Teal sailing placidly; none of the feverish activity of spring when they rush and bustle after each other. Throaty purr of Moorhen in the reeds; Herons anchored in the wet meadows beyond.

A couple of Swallows flit past, then suddenly there are about fifty dipping and skimming over the water; mostly House Martins now. Tony thinks he sees Sand Martins among them. And as quickly, they are gone.

As we sit, the cloud is increasing and a little breeze is ruffling the water and swaying the rushes. Was that the signal for the Curlews who had been standing motionless, knee-deep at the edge of the pool to get up with brief bubbling calls and head off towards the sandbanks of the estuary, exposed by the falling tide?

A Dabchick with round fluffy stern, potters alongside the reedy margin. He isn’t bothering to dive just now, unlike the Cormorant fishing intently in the further pool, under water more than above. Perhaps he’s having to look long and hard for little fish.

Walmsley Sanctuary. Sep.22nd 2016

Autumn day at Walmsley

Hoping for perhaps a Red Admiral in the Ivy, Redwings on the Haws or even a Red-legged Partridge, we set off for Walmesley Reserve yesterday morning on a glorious sunny day and a clear blue sky but very cold and a white frost.

No luck with the Red Admiral, or the Redwings (all the haws either stripped off all but one bush, or hadn't set this year) but as soon as we looked across the meadow by the bridge where we park, there among the black cattle, were no fewer than ELEVEN Cattle Egrets accompanying the cattle.

 

 

Cattle Egret

We then went and sat in the corner hide. The sun was shining in that corner quite warmly and soon the white frost was gone off the herbage on the bank where a heron was standing apparently motionless and seemingly oblivious of us close-by. It wasn't that motionless as in fact over the half hour or so that we were there, it imperceptibly shortened its long cranked neck till it was crouching, and once just stretched out and picked something small off the grass with the tip of its beak.

A moorhen walked tentatively across the ice on the pool in front of us flicking its black and white tail, the greenish lobes on its feet splayed out as it slipped a little.

A fox appeared to our left, picking its way delicately along the bank, zigzagging from the hedge to the water’s edge. We'd been watching a snipe probing the grass above the water, but it had melted away as the fox approached. By one clump of rushes the fox stopped and stared, stalking something like a cat will, then after an age, it reared up gently then pounced its front feet into the tuft, but it was out of luck and quietly resumed its walk. Its coat was rich russet in the sun and it trailed its white-tipped brush straight out behind, before it disappeared in dead ground over the bank and we made our way to the tower hide.

It had been a delightful, very English, little interlude, in sharp contrast to the foreign-looking impact of the cattle egrets we saw earlier.

There is some water now but it dried out in the summer draught. However, it enabled the easy cutting back of the emergent vegetation so a greater expanse of water will be seen when the rains eventually have an impact.

Oct31st’18

On another occasion we watched a heron’s struggle with an eel. He had been standing at the water’s edge, motionless when, with a sudden stab, he grabbed an eel, as stout and as long as his neck. We waited with baited breath, with suppressed football-crowd shouts of support, as he wrestled with it, trying to manoeuvre it into the right position to swallow it. He dropped it several times, but retrieved it; half-swallowed it and then brought it up again, the eel all the while struggling valiantly. In the end we didn’t know who we were rooting for, eel or heron! Eventually, the ell was safely swallowed. It must have still been alive. I wonder what that feels like?

Grey Heron
 

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