SUMMER VISIT TO NW. WALES

 

In spite of the eye-watering cost of diesel now, we decided to go up to Kim’s in the van now we have got it through the MoT. Hoping to repeat the successful arrangement of last summer, we plan to go up for a week, overlapping with Angus and Brendan’s week there for a few days in the middle of our visit. It’s less pressure on Kim if we aren’t all there for the whole time, especially if the weather’s poor.

August 1^st ‘22

Although the diary said today is a bank holiday, there were a lot of heavy lorries on the roads, as well as cars and what seemed to be tradesmen going about their work. [It turned out it was only a public holiday in Scotland and Ireland] We left about 7am and stopped at 9 for breakfast at the Taunton Deane services. The Somerset countryside was looking golden with ripe corn and stubbles and the gleaning rooks, starlings and gulls.

By midday we reached the Gilfach Valley, a nature reserve a bit north of Rhayader. There were several cars in the car-park near the entrance so we drove on up the valley till we could turn and stop beside the road, and ate our lunch looking back down the valley over extensive coniferous/ birch woodland and the willow wood along the stream. The steep hillsides were grazed moorland with rocky outcrops.

Looking down the Gilfach valley

While Tony slept after lunch, I walked up the road enjoying the fine views and the big clumps of ling growing among the boulders on the hillside.

 Huge slabs of slate have been up-ended and used as a fine boundary.

We continued northwards and this time took the road from Llanidloes directly cross country past Llyn Clywedog and then along narrow single track but fortunately quiet, lanes then up and over the great mountain pass beyond Malltwyd to rejoin our more usual road at Cross-Foxes. This avoids the busy and bendy road up to Machynllech and then to Dolgellau.

We had originally planned to meet Kim a bit south of Trawsfynedd to stop overnight in Snowdonia and put out the moth trap. Our mid-journey phone conversation told us that rain was forecast to set in about 4pm so not fancying a wet night for either Kim in her bivvy-bag or for the moth trap, we decided to scrap that plan and go straight on to Ty'n Gamdda. We arrived at Kim’s at Ty’n Gamdda at 4-30pm as it started to rain! So it was a wise choice! There was half an inch of rain over the next 18 hours.

Tuesday 2^nd Aug.

The drizzle continues and with a brisk SW wind. Jane came over and we settled down to a good catch-up chat. Largely an ‘in day’ with almost half an inch of rain.

Wed.3rd August.

Sunny and warm. We watched the comings and goings of Willouby’s Leafcutter bees bringing big pieces of leaf to various holes Gwydion had drilled in some big blocks of wood. We watched from the sunny clearing in the back garden. This year the bees are also using the drainage holes near the base of a plant pot there.

Blocks of wood with holes bored for solitary bees.

Willouby's Leaf-cutter Bee with piece of rose leaf before dragging it into a hole at the base of a pot plant.

Rose leaf with almost circular sections cut out by leafcutter bees. They take mere seconds to remove each piece of leaf.

Later we drove to Widlin on the North coast of Pen Lleyn, and Kim and I walked across a couple of fields from the lane to the cliff top. From there we could look down into the small bay, across rocks to the far end where a thick layer of sandy head material overlies the rock. There are about 17 Sand Martins’ nest holes there and we could see the comings and goings of several martins at a distance. Nearer along the beach we could see a Whimbrel and three Common Sandpipers feeding on the scattered seaweed near the high tideline and a couple of Oystercatchers and a few Black-headed Gulls.

The yellowish patch at the top of the cliff at the far end of the bay is where the sand Matins have excavated their nest holes.

Two or three Sandwich Terns were flying and occasionally plunging into the sea, calling with their rusty screeches and then returning to the beach where a youngster was persistently begging for food from the returning adults, usually without success.

A Grayling butterfly came and settled just in front of us. They always close their wings as soon as they alight, and lean over sideways a little so only their camouflaged under - wing is seen.

Towards the end of the afternoon we went to pick blackberries along the track beyond Cau Crin. There is a fine crop of good big, well-flavoured ones along here. Stewed and strained, they make a delicious puree with Greek yoghurt.

Patches of Harebells always adorn the banks around here.

At twilight we set up the Skinner moth trap in the top corner of the hayfield, hoping it would be more or less sheltered from the fresh westerly wind.

Skinner moth trap in the hay field.

Half of the hayfield was cut this afternoon. K & G have left it late so the insects could enjoy the flowers. They are only cutting half so that next year they can compare growth and insects in the two differently managed areas.

Thursday 4^th August

Kim got up at 5.30 and switched off the moth trap and covered it before going on her morning walk along the cliff and we opened up after breakfast. Despite the breeze and clear sky we had a respectable catch of 64 individuals of 40 species. A few were new for the year for Kim and me too, as I don’t get coastal species in inland SE Cornwall. Scarce Footman is a novelty for me and so too is the Yellowtail and Crescent Dart, but all of which we trap in Brittany.

During our visit we walked down from time to time, to the pond Kim dug in the bottom corner of the hay field last year. It is beginning to settle in quite well, with clumps of marginal and emerging plants including Water Plantain, Bogbean and various rushes and sedges looking established. Small quantities of duckweed have appeared and the water lily has a succession of beautiful white flowers opening every day. So far there is about 90% open water surface so plenty of space for pond skaters, water boatmen and whirligig beetles, and Kim has seen six different species of Dragonflies and damsels, some mating and laying eggs. The myriad toad tadpoles have long since grown and taken to dry land. Sitting on the bench at one end, we watched birds coming to drink and bathe ; House Sparrows, Linnets, Goldfinches and a Pied Wagtail all pottered on the surrounding shores of cobbles and a gang of three or four swallows repeatedly flew round and swooped down low over the water, either drinking or catching insects. The resident Swallows nesting in the woodshed near the house have so far fledged their first brood of five and are busy feeding their second brood.

The pond after about a year.

Angus and Brendan his second son, eleven years old, (one of our grandsons) arrived for a week’s stay, this evening. Brennie’s first job was to say hello to the hens and sheep. The black twin lambs, born in the spring, were new to him.

Brennie cutting young leafy willow for the sheep.

Friday 5^th August

The morning was social, with visits from Kim’s friend Jan and from Viv & John who have recently moved to Aberdaron from the Forest of Dean. Very keen and knowledgeable naturalists, they are a very welcome addition to the area.

Gwydion turned the hay this afternoon after the heavy dew had dried off.

In the evening we carted the Skinner moth trap and all the accompanying paraphernalia in the wheelbarrow, up to Bywchestyn and Angus and Brennie set up their tent on the cliff-slope beyond. Kim lit the light in the trap as it was getting dark about 9.30 and took her swag to sleep alongside Angus and Brendan. Brendan began the night sleeping out in his sleeping bag but by the morning he had retreated, covered in dew, into the tent.

Saturday 6^th August

Angie got up at 5.30 and switched off the moth light and covered the trap which they later brought down to the house to open. We had a more moderate catch this time, with about 53 individuals of 17 species, many of which were Flounced Rustics, but also handsome Antlers and True Lover’s Knots, both to be found in moorland situations. A new species for Kim was a Nutmeg. Brennie tubed most of the moths from the egg boxes which they were roosting in at the bottom of the trap. Young fingers and reactions are very dexterous. After identifying and counting, the catch was released back on the cliff.

Nutmeg, a new moth for this site .

Then picnic and sea-going equipment (for snorkelling, canoeing and paddleboarding) were assembled and we drove the few miles to a small bay on the north coast of the peninsula, Porth Ysgaden, where we could readily indulge the water babies of the party. Kim warned us it could be busy as it was a Saturday in the height of the holiday season and the nearby farms all have camp-sites these post-pandemic days. Little did any of us realize just HOW busy it would be. Cars choked the top of the bay and were parked alongside the road for hundreds of yards back. Vehicles towing trailers with boats were trying to get to the bay, and those already unloaded were trying to get parked.

As it was lunchtime already, we just took our picnic and snorkels and wet suits and walked along the clifftop path a short way and sat on the grass looking down into a narrow inlet just to the south of Porth Ysgaden.

Snorkelling inlet just round the corner from Porth Ysgaden.

Next, when the snorkelling had lost interest, came the job of blowing up the paddleboard and canoe-----both inflatables these days. Kim helped them down to the slipway and came back with tales of queues to launch and utter bedlam with people trying to launch various craft and others trying to land. This is the nearest slipway for all the area’s campers so it is very popular but a real bottleneck. It would have been a horrible shock and no doubt we’d have turned away if we’d been unprepared for a crowd.

Kim, Angus & Brendan with snorkels.

Angus in canoe and Brennie on paddleboard, Porth Ysgaden.

Sunday 7th August

Today's first job was to construct a new compost compound in the narrow strip of veg. garden going down to the pond beside the hayfield. When filled and the compost rotted down, kim will use this as a raised bed to keep the constant problem of rabbits off the crop.

Angus & Kim making the new compost compound.

Tony had brought up the net and tray which he uses in Cornwall to look at river invertebrates to assess water quality in the River Seaton. He and Kim were interested to see how the stream which joins the river at Aberdaron compared. This stream has run dry near the usual confluence so we went up the valley a bit till the water was still running among the big boulders in its bed.

They sampled among the boulders a bit upstream from the bridge at Cyll y Felin (Hazel Mill)

The standard sampling method was used to give a measurable comparison and although the water level was low and rather cloudy, they were pleased to find they had caught five small sticklebacks and a good number of Stonefly larvae as well as caddis larvae and other species which we were unfamiliar with. So all-in-all, the fish, Gammarus (Freshwater Shrimps) and other species indicated a reasonable water quality despite rather unpromising appearances. Back at Ty'n Gamdda we set up Angus’s small aquarium with water pump for a short stay for the sticklebacks to watch them for a while before returning them to Cyll y Felin.

Back at Tyn Gamdda, looking at the river sample.

Some of the unidentified invertebrates from the sample.

The hay was turned for the second time this afternoon.

Monday 8^th Aug.’22

An early start to load up our gear, clean the barn and off down the road by nine am.

We’d opted for the Cross-Foxes/ Malltwyd route again and made good time on a lovely morning.

We stopped for our lunchtime picnic by the River Wye beyond Builth Wells ,on a back road in a small quiet lay-by a mile or so upstream from the pretty little suspension bridge between Erwood and Boughrood. It was sunny and hot with scarcely any air moving, and we were glad to park in dappled shade beside a luxuriant growth of Meadowsweet, Ground Elder and nettles partly under the sweeping low-slung branches of a big Wych Elm. Speckled Wood and a Silver-washed Fritillary butterfly were flitting around.

As we sat, we became conscious that every now and then a little puff of whitish dust was erupting from a couple of taller-than-the-rest, nettles. These plants, like the rest of the nettles in that patch, were in flower and we realized that they were males whose inflorescences were mature and in the warm dry air were splitting open their pollen sacs and the white pollen was being released. The light breeze was wafting the little clouds away, to become invisible within a foot from the plant, but the minute pollen grains would still be in the air. Some could alight on a female nettle flower and then fertilize it to produce seed.

 The scientific name of the Stinging nettle is Urtica dioecia. Urtica refers to the stinging hairs on the plant which give a painful rash; the dioecia specific name tells us that the male and female flowers are produced on separate plants, thus ensuring cross-pollination and a vigorous mixing of genes.

We have never witnessed this pollen eruption from nettles, and it also reminded us how many microscopic particles travel through the air without us ever being aware. As the sun moved a bit, more nettle plants were lit up and warmed, and they too started to explode little puffs of pollen.

Stinging nettle in flower.

This was the highlight of a journey which became hotter, slower and more tedious as we got embroiled in heavy traffic from Bristol south to Weston-super- Mare, and we were glad to get home. We phoned Ty’n Gamdda to let them know we’d arrived safely and they told us the hay had been bailed and the 38 bails were safely stacked in the shed.

Rowden Meadow

 

A green lane or old track leads between the fields from the NW of Stokeclimsland, to finish these days at a lane. In the past it continued towards the extensive woodlands of the Tamar Valley upstream from Gunnislake. These woodlands are mainly coniferous now but were in the past heathy ridges above a steep valley-side clothed with ancient oak woods. The track must have originally continued through what is now a strip of rough meadow becoming increasingly narrow, until it come to another lane, but it is supposed by local historians, to have been an old droveway to the heathy land at the crest of the deep valley.

Rowden Strip Meadow in March '21. Looking down from entrance gate.

Until a few years ago this narrow strip of meadow was used by a local woman to graze horses but it has subsequently fallen out of use and the Parish Council has taken it over for the community. This has led to a variety of suggestions from interested parties, from dog-walkers to horse riders, an open classroom for children or students, but it has been recognised as a valuable wildlife site because of its comparative lack of management. The hedges running the length of the strip on the north and south sides have a great variety of shrubby and tree species. The part to the west is dominated by tussocky Cocksfoot grass and the further end has an increasing stand of bracken. Among and below this coarse growth is a variety of other herbaceous plants supporting a rich diversity of moths, as already indicated by a few moth trapping events during the last two seasons. Other invertebrates are also no doubt abundant

.Last autumn for example, the area of cocksfoot tussocks was adorned with magnificent Orb Spiders' webs draped across the clumps of tall grass, spangled with dew which shone like jewels in the low morning sun.

Moth Trap.

Many moths have been trapped, identified and then released in several moth-trapping nights over the past 18 months, including this Privet Hawk Moth, the largest native British  moth..

Its caterpillar eats Ash leaves as well as privet.

Bank voles are frequently seen under mats about 18" square laid down to shelter such creatures

.

Walks through the strip at different seasons have shown a variety of beetles, butterflies, day-flying moths, deer, and foxes.

Occasionally, a Roe Deer may be startled, and will swiftly leap into the next field.

Bloody-nosed Beetle, so named because when it's alarmed it exudes a red unpleasant-tasting liquid from its joints which deters birds from eating it.

It is a flightless beetle, generally  seen in spring. It's larvae eat mainly Hedge Bedstraw.

Five-spot Burnet. This is a day-flying moth emerging in June. It's caterpillars feed on Birdsfoot Trefoil.

It has five spots on each wing. In this picture the fifth spot is mostly covered by the overlapping wings. It closely resembles the related Six-spot Burnet.

In early spring the central part of the meadow is a carpet of the golden stars of Lesser Celandine.

Later in the spring, the hedge bottoms and banks are dominated by the red, white and blue of patches of Greater Stitchwort (seen above), Bluebells and Red Campion.

The species-rich hedges of the Rowden Meadow are punctuated by the white blossom of Blackthorn and later, with Bullace, and then Hawthorn, Guelder Rose and Wild Apple (pictured above)

Bright yellow Brimstone butterflies can be seen flying up and down the meadow in search of the paler yellow female. Their caterpillars feed on Alder Buckthorn, another species of shrub to be found in the Rowden hedges.

The warmth of summer days encourages insects such as this Buff-tailed Bumble -bee.

Later still, the brambles are flowering and attract hoverflies such as this big Bumble-bee mimic.This Volucella bombylans is a nectar-feeder and neither bites nor stings.

Autumn brings its own bounty of hedgerow fruit, such as this Spindle, with dark red Haws, purple Sloes, acorns and these bright shiny Guelder Rose berries.(below)

It has been recognised that the wildlife in this strip of meadow needs to be identified and recorded for two or three years during different seasons, to get an idea of what is there, before any management or intervention is done.

The present variety of habitat, with richly-diverse woody species in the hedges on each side of this strip, and the unimproved grassland within it, will arguably hold a greater diversity of wildlife than if it is in the future, completely un-managed and closed natural woodland develops .Already, without grazing, seedling Oaks and Willow, and suckering Thorn are appearing within the grassy area; Bramble and Bracken are encroaching; all signs of the natural succession of plants in their inexorable efforts to revert to woodland when there is no human intervention. 

At some time within a few years, a management plan needs to be instigated and executed, because the size f this meadow strip is too small to be 're-wilded'. 

The current hot topic of 're-wilding' as exempilfied on the Knepp Estate and some  areas in Scotland, is more appropriate when practiced in large areas of land, with sufficient space for a mosaic of vegetation  of different ages to develop. These habitats are  created by the free grazing of a limited number of various animals, each favouring different feeding strategies, from ground-disturbing foraging by pigs to grass-eating and browsing herbivores.

A Short Spring Visit to North West Wales

 

Wed 11^th May’22

Arrived yesterday evening (see previous Blog.)

Walked up the field to see the lambs at the top of the field, and then down to see the pond, new last year. It’s got huge numbers of toad tadpoles, the odd water boatman and pond skater and whirligig beetles. The plants sparse but settling in nicely. Stone surrounds still being added. Swallows flying over and a House Martin. Whitethroats singing.

This year's twins (mum on left, Grandma in front)

Whirligig Beetles, Pond Skaters and Water Boatmen have settled in the pond, nd there are great numbers of black Toad tadpoles.

(Kim e-mailed a day or two ago:' Birds are enjoying the pond, Swallows dunk then preen on the fenceposts; Dunnock, Spadgers, Meadow Pipit, Linnet, Goldfinch coming to drink ; and sundry Corvids to wash and brush up or drink.

A Swallow just now was flying all round back and forth just above the surface getting-what? pond- skaters or flies?')

In the afternoon we walked up the field again and onto Bywchestyn. Fields each side at the top have been ploughed by Gareth. Looking across to the west Kim saw what looked like a Hoodie. Martin from Cae Cryn was standing by the gate and he and Kim chatted a bit.(He e-mailed her later to say he’d seen a couple of hoodies with some rooks about where we’d seen that one which was a nice confirmation.)

The Parwyd, looking across to the site of the Peregrines' nest.

We walked across to the Parwyd where there was a flock of about 40 non-breeding choughs wheeling around and perching in places. Saw one of the nesting peregrines being chased by crows and the recently-fledged Ravens who had nested there just above the Peregrines, were perching and soliciting vociferously. Lovely clumps of Thrift and Sea Campion. 

Thrift.

                                 Sea Campion

Raven.

                                              Chough

Intermittent rain in the evening.

Thursday 12^th May’22

Bright sun first thing. A bit less wind. We walked across to Pen y Cil to look for Wheatears. Lovely thrift. Dirty sea. We saw them as we sat on the rocks. Kim saw some Manxies but I didn’t pick them up.

Male Northern Wheatear.

In the afternoon Kim and I walked, after driving to Pwll Cyw which is covered with Bog Bean in flower.

Pwll Cyw. The Council dredged this pond a few years ago but it has soon covered with (mostly) Bog Bean.

Close-up of Bog Bean.

Then drove on a bit to the top of the lane with the two little cottages.

                                                            Bryn Caned

Cae Crin

and then on down the track past them, towards Porth Melyn. Found what looked like a tennis-ball sized fine grassy spherical nest in the bottom of a tuft of long grass. SEE THE END OF THIS BLOG!

Cock Stonechat. He was keeping a close eye on us as his family were scattered among the nearby gorse bushes.

Several Linnets were flitting around on the short turf on the clifftop.There were patches of Spring Squill making a blue sheen on the grass.

Friday 13^th May’22

Set off early to go to Anglesey. Kim wanted to show us a wetland reserve they went to last winter.

We crossed the Menai Strait on the Britannia bridge, built by Robert Stevenson in the mid 1800s.

A few miles along the road is a wide shallow valley running NE to SW with low ridges to the north and south. The valley is formed by the River Cefni, the principal river of Anglesey. Eleven miles long, it runs out to sea in the SW of Anglesey at Malltraeth. The valley bottom contains the RSPB Reserve of Cors Ddyga, a mix of wet, marshy meadows, extensive reedbeds and areas of open water.

                                                      Cors Ddyga Information Board.

We stayed out of these wet meadows as we didn't want to disturb the ground-nesting birds. A Skylark was singing overhead. Going down a steepish track through woodland to reach the valley there was a chorus of Blackcap, Willow Warbler and Chiffchaff song.

The stony track ran through the reedbeds and we stood and watched a male, later joined by a female Marsh Harrier flying low over the reeds. Greylag Geese and Lapwings were also flying across the far end.

  

Male Marsh Harrier.

                                            Female Marsh Harrier

We were treated to the most prolonged sedge/reed warbler recital I’ve ever heard, though still none the wiser as to which. Too much wind for them to be climbing up the reeds to give us views.

This is a Reed Warbler.

Sedge Warbler is much more streaked over the wings and back and has a noticeable white streak above the eye.

            A Male Reed Bunting sang his little song.

We passed or were passed by about 16 people altogether. It’s a good big round walk round the periphery of the whole reserve but we just did the first leg to the River Cefni and back. Skylarks singing. Bitterns have been seen/heard but no luck today.

Caernarvon is now by-passed by a new road but we chose to drive home through town and passed the castle

Caernarvon Castle

and then drove along the coast of the Menai Strait. A few gull were foraging among the stones on the shore and we saw about 14 Whimbrel feeding before they flew off in a little flock.

Whimbrel has a shorter beak than a Curlew, distinct white crown stripes and a distinctive call.

.

Sat 14^th May’22

Pottering day. No wind. Hazy, becoming sunny. Potted up my courgettes and other plants.

We were seeing Small Yellow Underwings on the Mouse-eared Chickweed in their bottom meadow . My first for UK. Also one or two Common Blues.

Mouse-eared Chickweed

                                             Small Yellow Underwing

(Kim emailed today June 2nd to say they had counted 21 of these little moths in the meadow today!)

We sat in the little clearing in the garden; a real sun-trap. Watching the holes in the block of wood that Gwydion had drilled last year for the leaf-cutter Bees to nest in, this time we were seeing Red Mason Bees showing interest in the holes.

Red Mason Bee interested in holes in wood.

Up the cliff this afternoon to look at the spherical ‘nest’.(See the end of this blog.)

Watched a Hairy Sand Digger Wasp at the side of the track up  above  Bryn Caned..It was covering what we supposed to be a nest hole in sandy gritty stuff at the side of the track, carting bits of grit, sand and grassy stuff, over the nest position .Interrupted by a roystering labrador.

Hairy Sand Digger Wasp burying its nest hole with particles of grit.

The uncontrolled dog unfortunately stopped the video and destroyed the wasp's efforts.

Porpoises in the Sound.

Put the moth trap out down in the top corner of the bottom field as the wind had dropped a good deal.

Sunday 15^th May’22

Opened up the moth trap. A modest catch.

A Brimstone Moth was roosting in the grass beside the trap. his often happens ; they seem to be attracted to the light but prefer to roost outside over night.

.Quiet morning. In afternoon we drove up the Rhiw road as far as Penrhyn Mawr where we parked and walked along a pretty bare stony track with a lot of reddish plants of Crassula tillaea.

Crassula tilaea belongs to the Stonecrop family. Easily overlooked in dry stony places, but these red patches were quite conspicuous. It will quickly become desiccated in a dry summer and disappear.

 Then crossed two fields from where we could look across Aberdaron Bay towards Pen y Cil and Bardsey, or directly south to the Gwylans. Using the ‘scope we could see Guillemots, Shags, Cormorants , Herring Gulls and Puffins standing outside their holes and lots especially on the sea just off the islands.

                The Gwylans (Gull Islands) Gwylan Fawr is in front and partly hiding Gwylan Fach.

The Puffin is an engaging bird. The beak loses its bright colours in the winter.

Through the scope we could see plenty of Puffins standing outside their burrows and there were even more bobbing about in the water just off the islands. Guillemots were standing by chicks and eggs on a flat rock slab, gulls were wheeling above and we remembered our annual visits there when the children were small.

Looking west from Penrhyn Mawr. Bardsey in the distance.

Monday 16^th May’22

After lunch we made a short visit to Porth Oer (Whistling Sands.) This beach gets its name from the strange squeaking noise as you walk on the sand. The particles are small and round and as they rub together under foot, they squeak.

                                                     Looking north east across Porth Oer.

this time we didn't go on the beach; instead we walked along to the headland on the southern end of the beach and stood on the clifftop. As we walked back to the car through a small piece of woodland, Kim caught a glimpse of a Spotted Flycatcher and we watched it among the leafy branches.  Perhaps they had come in the previous night, because when we got back to Ty'n Gamdda, there was another in the fruit trees down the drive!

These migrants are becoming less frequent and it was a fitting end to yet another fascinating visit.

PS. THE 'NEST'

When we looked at it again, we decided it was in low vegetation where the strong winds had made a little vortex and whirled the fine grass round and round to resemble a nest! 

It makes a good trick photo!

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